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The Songha� rulers can be organized into three distinct dynasties.  The Za (also known as the Dia) dynasty ruled the region from 690 - 1337, followed by the Sonni dynasty, which ruled the region from 1337 - 1495, followed by the Askia dynasty, which ruled from 1495 - 1591.

It was during the 15th and 16th centuries that Gao was home to the powerful Songha� Empire ruled first by the Sonni dynasty and then by the Askia dynasty.  The greatest ruler of this time was Sonni Ali Ber, otherwise known as Ali the Great.  It was Sonni Ali Ber who recognized that the Mali Empire was weakening and expanded what was originally Songha� influence into a true empire.  He expanded the Empire so that it stretched from Dahomey (found in modern-day Benin) to S�gou (found in modern-day Mali).

Sonni Ali Ber was followed by his son, Bakari.  Bakari, like his father, was not exactly religiously inclined and the governor of Hombori, Mohamed Torodo, overthrew Bakari. Mohamed became known as Mohamed Askia as "askia" means "usurper".  Mohamed Askia solidified his claim to the throne by seeking the support of religious leaders and followed that strategy up with a tremendous hajj to Mecca.

His voyage to Mecca was awe-inspiring.  Traveling by foot and by horse with 500 horsemen and 1000 foot soldiers across nearly the whole length of the Sahara Desert for two years (one going, one coming back), Mohamed Askia saw wondrous sites.  He visited the pyramids in Egypt, which became his inspiration for his own pyramid-shaped mosque, the Tomb of the Askias, which can still be visited in Gao today.

During his time at Mecca, he bestowed such grand gifts and fortunes that there is a special prayer area in Mecca set aside for him and his descendents...an arrangement that exists for Malians traveling to Mecca to this day.  He was granted the title of khalif for the entire region of the Soudan.

Upon his return he expanded his empire through conquest until it included portions of modern-day Burkina Faso, Mali, and Niger all the way to Agadez.  Later Askia rulers expanded that territory even further until the Empire included Senegal and all of the territory down into modern-day Nigeria. The Songha� Empire's wealth drew the attention of a Moroccan sultan who sent an army to attack the Songha�.

While the Moroccans had attempted to seize Songha� power with periodic attacks, the struggle for power and prestige between the Songha�s and the Moroccans culminated in the battle at Tondibi (about 60 Km from modern-day Gao) where the Songha�'s unsuccessfully tried to drive their massive cattle herds into their enemies.  Instead the cattle were turned around and used on them by their enemies instead.  In this case, history's first unsuccessful attempt to use cattle as a weapon was quickly followed by the first successful attempt to use cattle as a weapon.

The Moroccans then pillaged Gao and the power of the Songha� empire was ended.

The People of Gao
There are two main indigenous groups of people in Gao today - the Songha� and the Tamashek (also known more commonly as the Tuareg).

The Songha�  have traditionally been the "people of the river".  Their present-day territory stretches predominately along the banks of the Niger River from Ansongo almost until Mopti.  The late, celebrated Malian musician, Ali Farka Tour�, was a Songha�.  The Songha�'s have traditionally engaged in agricultural affairs, such as fishing and farming and herding livestock near the river.  The Songha�'s speak their own distinct language, called "koro boro senni", which literally translates into "village person language".  There are several different, closely-related dialects of the Songha� language spoken in the Gao and Timbuktu regions. Songha�'s make up about 6% of Mali's population today.

The Tuareg are the traditional "people of the desert".  Their existence, although changing somewhat now, has traditionally been a nomadic one, as they ranged throughout the unforgiving Sahara with their livestock.  The Tuareg are actually split into many different sub-groups or clans that call different parts of the Sahara and Sahel home throughout Mali, Niger, Burkina Faso, Mauritania, and Algeria.  The Tuareg have their own language (the same language as the Berbers in Algeria), and although it may sound Arabic to an untrained ear, it is completely different.  The Tuareg make up a small minority in Mali, representing about 3% of the total population. 

Tuaregs have a mythical reputation and were once referred to as the "blue people", owing to the fact that their skin sometimes achieves a blue hue from the indigo turbans and fabrics that they wear.  As true desert dwellers, the Tuaregs are quite often seen with their camels, and they live in distinctive low-slung tents, sometimes decorated with leatherwork. The tents can be easily packed up and moved as conditions dictate.

The final group of people worth mentioning are the Bella.  The Bella's are not actually a distinct ethnic group, but rather had been traditionally a slave caste within Tuareg culture. The word, "Bella", means "captive" in Tamashek.  The Bellas worked as Tuareg slaves until modern laws prohibited that practice.  The Bellas of today speak the Tamashek language, but many of them additionally speak Songha� as well.  The Bellas of today are no longer constrained by their history and many Bellas are now successful businessmen in Gao.

Gao is also home to several other notable minority groups, including:

• Arabs - immigrated to Gao mostly from Algeria but some trace their roots in the region for over 1000 years

• Dogons - traditionally a cousin of the Songha�

• Peuls - traditionally nomadic herders found in many West African countries, but in Gao sedentary and no longer speaking the Peul language

• Bambaras - a majority people in southern Mali, but a minority in Gao

• Haoussa, Zarma, and Mossi - all from the country of Niger to the south

• Yoruba - from Nigeria to the south

Gao Today
The Gao of today is a peaceful and hospitable destination at the intersection of the Sahara Desert and the Niger River.  Gao, a trading city for thousands of years, still has commerce at its heart with many products emerging from the desert to the north bound for the south and vice versa.

Gao still retains many of its ancient charms.  Consider that, even as a city of 50,000 people, in 2006 there were only five paved roads in the whole town.  Consider that a new bridge over the Niger, completed in mid-2006, connected Gao with the rest of southern Mali for the first time in its thirteen hundred year history. Consider that you can still buy blocks of salt mined in the Sahara in the marketplace and if you're lucky, you can see one of the camel caravans that bring it here.

The Gao of today is still giving Mali tremendous cultural gifts.  For instance, the up and coming guitar virtuoso, Baba Salah, is from Gao.  Gao has produced several top-notch bands and dance performers such as the Songha� Stars, Gao-Gao, Super Onze, and Holley.  Additionally, Gao is the home of the "Tacamba" dance known and appreciated throughout Mali.

There is no doubt that the Gao of today offers a startling m�lange of colors, sights, and diverse cultures.  Come visit us here in Gao and allow yourself to be enchanted.

Gao Fast Facts
Founded: 7th Century

Historical Claim: Site of the 15th Century Songha� Empire that ruled all of West Africa

Current Role: One of 8 Malian regional capitals; One of three major West African Saharan trading cities (Gao and Timbuktu in Mali, Agadez in Niger)

Population: Approximately 50,000

Religion: ~98% Muslim, few Christians

Ethnicities: Songha�, Tamashek / Tuareg, Arab, Daoussahaq

Languages: French, Songha�, Tamashek, Arab, Daoussahaq

Industries: Agriculture, Fishing, Herding, Saharan trade

Environment: Sahel; Edge of Sahara Desert; Edge of Niger River

Infrastructure: Five paved roads in town; No traffic signals; Some electricity and running water; Extensive river traffic

Internet Access: Two public Internet centers

Accessibility: By road, by air, by river, by camel

Approximate Distances: Bamako - 1225 Km; Timbuktu - 425 Km; Mopti / Sevar� - 600 Km; S�gou - 1000 Km; Kidal - 400 Km; Niamey, Niger - 450 Km

Sources: U.S. government websites, Mahamane "Anthony" Tour�, Kata Data Alhousseini Ma�ga, The Rough Guide

The Pink Dune
Visit these dramatic dunes glowing pink at sunset after a leisurely boat ride on the Niger

Tomb of the Askias
Climb this 15th-century pyramid-shaped mosque said to be built with wood brought from a two-year Mecca hajj.

Cruise the Niger River
Migratory Birds, Massive Sand Dunes, Fishermen , Villages, Hippos - Tranquility on the Niger

Visit the Sahara by Camel
Visit camel markets in Wabaria or Djebok or take a multi-day camel trek in the Sahara

Genuine Touareg Crafts at the Maison des Artisans
Touareg products originating here are sold all over West Africa

The Village of Tchintchinome
Visit this village along the Niger and see development in action.